A Détacher autumn winter 2015 2016 women’s wear models
Fall found A Détacher designer Mona Kowalska plumbing the stories of Elena Ferrante (the pseudonym of an anonymous Neapolitan novelist), and the female friendships contained therein, in all their complex, mercurial glory. It was a top-to-toe effort, starting with the towering braided headpieces models sported, a physical manifestation of “heavyheadedness/ wrongfootedness”—Kowalska’s chosen title for the outing.
According to Kowalska, matchy-matchy looks like a full set of cream cable knits played with the idea of baring one’s soul, exposing too much. A thread of precariousness ran through the collection, from the standout whipstitched suede pieces—even this early on in the shows, aren’t we all feeling a bit pieced together?—to the hair. That precariousness soon gave way to the explosive—literally, with a great black-and-white photoprint of Vesuvius mid-eruption, and more abstractly with a combustive-looking orange and navy print.
But for those few volatile moments, these were clothes with a hearty and decidedly domestic bent: the heavy cable knits, a quilted blue smock dress, even the boxy suede jackets. In places, the full looks verged on the schoolmarmish. Broken up, though, they’ll certainly find happy homes in the closets of arty women like Kowalska.
Mona Kowalska behind A Détacher was inspired by sports injury in her Autumn-Winter 2015-2016 womenswear collection, asking herself: “what remains of a former athlete’s career stylistically,” that’s collection about a girl who is forced to stay away from the gym. So, the show featured classic sportswear silhouette looks, including net mesh pleated shirtdresses, basketball shorts, silk round-collar dresses featuring cartoonish prints like clouds and lightning, structured car coats, roomy A-line wool turtlenecks, wool plaid capes, mesh jersey shorts and fluid micro floral pattern ensembles. The color palette featured brown, gray, navy, blue, black, deep maroon with accents of orange and yellow.