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“New York, sleek, Tina Chow.” Those were bullet points after feeling Francisco Costa’s Calvin Klein Collection show this afternoon. Like last season, Costa’s message today was about the knitwear. But back in February where he was thinking warm and cozy, sending the models out in the flat, lug-sole boots, here the look was bare and elongated. In them the Lucite platform sandals, with metal belts cinched high on the waist Empire-style over tunic-length tanks and longer skirts, or the occasional pair of swingy culottes, the models were skyscraper tall, as narrow as a sliver.
There are plenty of us who would like to look like that, but Costa’s knits have other Advantages. They’ll feel good against the skin: formfitting but not constricting. Sweater dressing was one of the key messages of the New York fashion week, and knits make sense at this particular label. Back in the day, tees, tanks, and racerbacks formed the basis of the Calvin Klein vocabulary. On the other hand, the subtle geometric embroideries and graphic color-blocking (navy and cream, navy and black) were pure Costa. The art-loving designer said the rejection of a laser-cut leather lacquer coat came from Andy Warhol’s Mao Zedong portraits. There was a cool elegance to this collection, though the narrow focus on a single silhouette and restrained palette did become a bit repetitive. Overall, the clothes would’ve benefited from a little more of that red heat.