Moncler Gamme Rouge 2017-2018 dress collection

Moncler Gamme Rouge 2017-2018 dress collection

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Set in a desert scene, the Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring 2017 runway show showcases officers attired in French Foreign Legion uniforms with sleek urban attire embellished featuring elements of historical and ceremonial dress.

With its bigger, bolder logos and slim yet relaxed shapes, Valli created a more youthful collection with drawstring pants; handmade macramé lace warm-up jackets, gilets, and jogging shorts; and tailored service suits and tunics in technical duchesse or micro-taffeta. The richly embroidered lace dresses at the end were empress outliers, a uniform for a modern Joséphine. “It’s vive la France. It’s a sign of support,” confirmed Valli.

The Gallic three-stripe worked its way onto sneakers; jackets with grosgrain patriotic tape from shoulder to hip; metallic sports shorts with go-faster stripes at the thigh; the trimmings of prettily-embroidered white coats; the zip treads of suits, cargo and bomber jackets; and finally as pretty ribbons tied at the waists of a zippy lace mini dress and another astoundingly intricate lace bomber-dress hybrid, appliqued with tiny flowers and pearls.

Creative Director Giambattista Valli featured historical references with a sporty edge with a  print combined archive architectural plans of buildings around 18th-century Paris. Basic red T-shirts boasted beaded bees, a key symbol for Napoleon. As Moncler was born near Grenoble nearly 65 years ago, the brand  guards its French heritage in spite of its Italian ownership.

Go backstage at the Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring 2017 runway show designed by Giambattista Valli presented at the Grand Palais in Paris

The official Twitter account for Moncler declares that the brand was “born in the mountains, lives in the city”. For spring, however, the Gamme Rougeline inhabited neither. Instead, it made a date with the desert, and sent out into the sand girls in bell-boy hats and patriotic colours. The red, white and blue was apposite. Paris has just suffered a serious blow to its image, thanks to L’Affaire Kardashian. Only the day before, mayor Anne Hidalgo had had to reiterate that Paris “is not a capital of crime, but a capital of fashion”, under attack from political opponents who were questioning the city’s record on safety, and raising concerns about the episode’s effect on tourism.

But back to the fashion: Giambattista Valli, clearly, is keen to bang the French drum. The Gallic three-stripe worked its way onto sneakers; jackets with grosgrain patriotic tape from shoulder to hip; metallic sports shorts with go-faster stripes at the thigh; the trimmings of prettily-embroidered white coats; the zip treads of suits, cargo and bomber jackets; and finally as pretty ribbons tied at the waists of a zippy lace mini dress and another astoundingly intricate lace bomber-dress hybrid, appliqued with tiny flowers and pearls. Even more astounding? It was waterproof.

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